Classic Mallorca Cycling: Return to Paradise

Sometimes the best adventures come from returning to places that have already captured your heart. Our first trip to Mallorca in 2024 wasn't really planned around cycling. At the suggestion of our CTS coach Charlie Livermore, we met up with Mills and Honey founder Alfonso on that and rode Sa Calobra and Cap Formentor. That was all it took—we knew we'd be back.

Mills and Honey: The Alphonso Advantage

Working again with Alfonso from Mills & Honey felt like reconnecting with an old friend who happens to know every perfect cycling route on the island. This year, we chose a more flexible arrangement—Alfonso selected our hotels, provided bikes (2021 S-Works Aethos w/ Dura-Ace Di2), transfers when needed, and loaded our Garmins with his carefully curated routes (and alternates), but we maintained the freedom to ride at our own pace and explore as we wished. The real magic happened when Alfonso decided to join us for rides on his days off, sharing not just his routes but his deep local knowledge and genuine enthusiasm for showing off his island home.

Day by Day: A Cycling Journey

May 13 - From Sineu to the Vineyards

Our first ride from Can Joan Capo took us to Puig de Randa, a nice steady climb that rises distinctively from Mallorca's central plains. The peak provides a good 360 view of the Mallorca countryside south of Serra de Tramuntana.

We then descended along good country road through the town of Porres where Alfonso had arranged a perfect farm-to-table experience featuring fresh local produce paired with estate wines and regional charcuterie. The kind of lunch that reminds you why cycling and cuisine make such perfect partners. Our ride back to Sineu included a quick stop for in San Joan for a cortado during a short thunderstorm. I always love that about Spain!

May 14 – Sineu to Pollença – Chill, Quiet Perfection

We daparted Can Joan Capo on our own. The skies were overcast, but with Alphonso on call, we knew we could get out of trouble if it occurred. It never did. The ride delivered exactly what Mallorca promises: 24 miles of stone-walled country roads where cars simply don't exist. With 1,400 feet of elevation gain and only one real climb approaching Campanet, it was the perfect introduction to why Pollença is considered a cycling mecca.

We checked into Can Auli, which quickly became our favorite hotel in Mallorca. Alphonso claimed this was the best breakfast on the island. He was right!

May 15 - The Classic: Cap Formentor

Today brought the real classic—Cap Formentor. This 35-mile round trip with 3,300 feet of elevation gain delivers some of the most stunning clifftop coastal riding anywhere. While the road wasn't closed to cars this visit (as it sometimes is), traffic remained light and respectful. More importantly, cyclists far outnumbered cars, creating that special cycling paradise atmosphere even with some vehicle traffic.

May 16 - Pollença "Rest Day"

We took today off from cycling for laundry, reading, and exploring Pollença on foot. Our "rest" included hiking the steep cobblestoned path to Santuari de la Mare de Déu del Puig for spectacular views, then walking into town to climb the famous Calvari Steps—all 365 of them.

Lunch at La Scalinata was well-earned after logging 4 miles and 1,100 feet of vertical. What a rest day indeed!

May 17 - Alaró

Saying goodbye to Can Auli was bittersweet, but Alfonso's offer to ride with us on his day off made the transfer to Port de Sóller unforgettable. Twenty-two miles of easy back-road riding south of Serra de Tramuntana brought us to Alaró, Alfonso's hometown, just as Saturday market day filled the main street with fresh coffee, pastries, produce, jewelry, and local life.

Although Alaró isn’t on most cyclist list of places to home base in Mallorca, it is perfectly located near many of the epic climbs. Cycling Planet café proved a perfect cyclist stop before we headed northeast through Bunyola and over the classic Coll de Sóller—stunning climbing followed by a fast descent into Port de Sóller, celebrated with the "slightly famous" (according to Alfonso) yogurt with fresh lemon at Petit Café Frozen Yogurt.

May 18 - Port de Sóller Rest

A peaceful day walking the length of Port de Sóller's beautiful harbor, soaking in the coastal atmosphere from our base at Hotel Esplendido.

Perhaps one of our favorite dinner’s of the trip was just a few steps from the hotel. Goia sit on the second floor overlooking the port. It is small, so make a reservation.

May 19 - The Grand Finale

Our longest and most spectacular ride: 44 miles and 5,000 feet of climbing along the coastline through Deià and Valldemossa, where Alfonso joined us again for the journey to Sant Elm. We were lucky enough to run into our Colorado friends Jeff and Anna. Jeff provided a good draft, setting us up for the second half of the ride.

Despite the challenging stats, we never felt tired—the Mediterranean coastal scenery was simply too magnificent. The descent on Coll d'en Claret should be considered a classic if it isn't already.

Palma - A Perfect Conclusion

Our Palma finale included dinner at Fera with new cycling friends Hai and Chi from Edmonton—a classic Michelin-style multi-course celebration that was both deserved and memorable. Hai's wine expertise made the evening even more special, and our German friend's recommendation proved spot-on.

Don't miss El Camino, where you make reservations for a place with no tables, only a long bar. It sounds odd, but trust us—do it. Hotel El Francesc, positioned just off the busy areas for blessed quiet, delivered the perfect urban sanctuary. The rooftop bar's view over old town provided the ideal setting for reflecting on a week of perfect cycling.

Reflections

Mallorca's cycling infrastructure continues to exceed every expectation. Mile after mile of quiet country roads stretch between ancient stone walls, creating natural corridors that feel designed specifically for bicycle wheels. On route after route, cars become so rare you forget they exist—just you, your bike, and the gentle Mediterranean landscape rolling by.

What made this trip special wasn't just the stunning cycling or exceptional accommodations—it was the confidence that comes from familiarity. Knowing Mallorca from our previous visit and feeling comfortable with Alfonso's guidance freed us to be more adventurous, to explore different routes, and to focus on discovery rather than logistics. This comfort allowed us to appreciate subtleties we might have missed as first-time visitors: the particular quality of light filtering through olive groves, the rhythm of small-town Spanish life, the simple pleasure of having your Garmin guide you along roads that feel carved specifically for cycling dreams.

Base Camp Toolkit

Cycling Support: Mills and Honey

Hotels: Can Joan Capo, Sineu provided our comfortable introduction to central Mallorca's cycling possibilities. Sineu does not have the same charm as our other stops making the hotel a nice oasis to hang around. The dinner is a highlight.

Can Auli, Pollença stands as one of our most memorable hotel experiences ever. Walking through the front door feels like crossing a threshold from the busy world into a peaceful sanctuary. Set just far enough from Pollença's center to escape bustle while remaining walkable to everything, the hotel became our perfect refuge. The lobby offered an ideal reading retreat during Suzanne's afternoon naps, while Alfonso wasn't exaggerating when he claimed Can Auli serves the best breakfast in Mallorca.

Hotel Esplendido, Port de Sóller provided elegant coastal comfort for our final cycling days, perfectly positioned for both mountain and seaside adventures.

Rental Car: DoYouSpain. Mercedes T Class from On Mobility at the Palma airport. The Mercedes can easily handle luggage and two bikes (wheels on) and yet manage the insanely tight cobblestone streets of the island’s towns.

Must-Try Dining: Fera (Palma), El Camino (Palma), Goia (Port Soller)

Bike Routes: Click through images to view the routes on Ride With GPS.