Mallorca: Three Days of Self-Guided Cycling and Culinary Discoveries in Soller

Weather kept us off the bikes for this adventure, but Soller proved to be such a fascinating town that we had to share what we discovered. Our next post will dive into the rest of our Mallorca journey, which Mills and Honey helped make possible.

As our ferry from Menorca pulled into Alcudia on May 8th, we were ready for the next chapter of our Balearic cycling adventure. The plan was simple: three days of self-guided cycling based in Soller, that charming mountain town nestled in Mallorca's Serra de Tramuntana. Mother Nature had different ideas, delivering enough rain and weather challenges to keep us off the bikes more than we'd hoped. But what could have been a disappointment became a perfect reminder that sometimes the best travel experiences come from embracing whatever Spain throws your way—and discovering that Soller offers far more than just spectacular cycling, even when the weather doesn't cooperate.

Soller: An Ideal Mountain Base

Our VRBO sat perfectly positioned in the heart of Soller, just steps from the town's vibrant center. While the accommodation itself was straightforward and functional, its location proved optimal for our cycling ambitions. The narrow streets buzzed with the energy of cyclists, hikers, and locals, creating that travel sweet spot where you feel part of the community rather than just passing through.

The beauty of Soller as a cycling base became immediately apparent: stunning mountain routes in every direction, excellent infrastructure for cyclists, and that magical Mediterranean combination of serious terrain with serious food culture.

Festival Atmosphere: Sa Fira and Es Firó

We couldn't have timed our arrival better. Soller was in the midst of Sa Fira and Es Firó, the traditional festival running from May 1-12, 2025, commemorating the town's historic 1561 victory against a pirate attack. The multi-day "Sa Fira" market filled the streets with cultural events and parades, creating an electric atmosphere that made every walk through town feel like a celebration. The festival culminated on our final day, May 12th, with the dramatic "Es Firó" reenactments—complete with pirate landings on the beach and street battles between "Moors" and "Christians."

Pedaling Through Paradise (and Weather)

Over three cycling days, we experienced the full range of what Mallorca's mountains could offer. Our inaugural ride took us from Soller through the postcard-perfect village of Fornalutx, climbing steadily toward the Mirador du tunnel. At 18.8 miles with 2,746 feet of elevation gain, this route delivered smooth road surfaces, spectacular mountain views looking back down at Soller, and the camaraderie of sharing the road with cyclists from around the world.

When Hail Meets Hospitality

As we descended back through Fornalutx after our tunnel ride, the sky opened up with a dramatic hailstorm that sent us scrambling for shelter. Sometimes the best travel moments are unplanned—we ducked into Restaurant Calzone, where a slice of pizza and cold Estrella Galicia cerveza while watching hail bounce off the cobblestones became one of our most memorable experiences. The weather forced us to shorten one day's ride, but as we learned (or perhaps relearned), if you go with the flow in Spain, everything works out fine.

Trading Wheels for Boots

Variety being the spice of travel, we dedicated one day to exploring on foot. The route from Soller up to Biniaraix along quiet roads revealed a different side of Mallorca's beauty. The path wound through small farmlike orange and lemon groves dotted with modest but charming homes—a glimpse into the authentic, agricultural heart of the island. The reasonably steep hike challenged our legs before the narrow, rocky path descended toward Fornalutx. Our reward awaited at Can Benet by Don Pedro, where lunch in this picturesque village provided the perfect ending to our hiking adventure.

Culinary Adventures

Soller's dining scene proved as varied and satisfying as its cycling routes. Ca'n Pintxo Restaurant, just a few blocks from our accommodation, captured the town's youthful energy with its "scene" vibe, modern finishes, and fun shareable plates. The commitment to sourcing everything from the Balearic Islands meant every bite tasted of place—fresh, local, and distinctly Mediterranean.

But the revelation came at Casa Álvaro, where we discovered something special: truly exceptional Mexican flavors in an unexpected setting. As Americans, we're accustomed to Tex-Mex—chips and salsa, skinny margaritas, and familiar comfort food. But Casa Álvaro delivered authentic Mexican cuisine with creative twists, like their incredible bao of cochinita pibil, combining traditional Yucatecan slow-roasted pork with Asian-style bao buns. You won't easily find this fusion in the States, and it was absolutely spectacular.

When you stay in Spain long enough, you eventually crave something completely different. Restaurante Lluna 36 satisfied that craving with Italian cuisine that could hold its own against any New York restaurant. The magic happens the moment you walk in—on your left, chefs hand-making fresh pasta, and suddenly you're ready to eat before you've even been seated.

Mother's Day called for something special, and Miga de Nube delivered with their charming back patio. The canopied space felt like a farmhouse retreat right in the middle of Soller. With slightly cool weather perfect for a light sweater, their fresh, light brunch menu provided an ideal start to a perfect Mother's Day.

Reflections

As we prepared for the next phase of our journey (meeting up with Alphonso of Mills and Honey for semi-supported cycling), we reflected on what made these three self-guided days special. There's something uniquely satisfying about navigating your own adventure—choosing your routes, discovering your own restaurants, and yes, finding your own shelter during unexpected hailstorms.

Mallorca's infrastructure makes self-guided cycling accessible without sacrificing adventure. The combination of well-maintained roads, cyclist-friendly culture, and Soller's perfect location creates conditions where you can challenge yourself on serious climbs while knowing excellent food and comfortable lodging await at day's end. Our whole experience reinforced that the best travel happens when you remain open to whatever unfolds.